Woodpecker Problems?
Of all birds, woodpeckers have the hardware and skill to do the most damage to buildings. As with any kind of wildlife, it is easier to accommodate them than to fight or control them. With the following tips, hopefully you will have a wildlife spectacle to behold instead of a woodpecker “problem.”
I should first mention that preventing access is a common solution for the most damaging activity. Netting is easy to install and safe for the bird. You can obtain netting at a farm supply or hardware store, make sure you ask for 3/4-inch netting or something close. Leave a three-inch gap between the net and the object of the woodpecker's attention and secure it at all corners so the bird can't get underneath. Alternatives to netting are hardware cloth or plastic sheathing.
Woodpecker Deterrents
Birds can go anywhere they want and it’s difficult to stop them. Preventing access to a troubled spot is the most common solution. Mounted owl or hawk decoys are generally ineffective because birds learn to ignore these lifeless objects. Hanging, moving decoys or metallic streamers are a better bet but success is far from guaranteed. Consistent repeated loud noises are more effective at scaring woodpeckers away. You'll have to consider, however, that this control method may be more obnoxious to you and your neighbors than the woodpecker itself.
Types of Woodpecker Activity
Before you try to prevent woodpecker activity, you must first understand why it's happening. Your solution will vary with the nature of the situation. The most common kinds of undesirable woodpecker activity are drumming, excavating and foraging. Let’s look at different behaviors and suggested solutions.
Drumming
A woodpecker's rapid, loud staccato is for display. It will do little or no damage because the bird is only making noise. For this, they select any object, artificial or natural, that resonates. If the bird has chosen a spot that makes an unbearable noise, the best prevention is to dampen the sound and the bird will look for a better object elsewhere. You can stuff the hollow spots or cover the object with foam or cloth. If dampening is not possible, try preventing access with netting. If you solve the drumming problem, you can make a "drumming post" to keep the woodpecker happy. Take two unfinished boards and nail one end together (like a sandwich) so that the unfastened end resonates when tapped. Mount the post vertically on a tree trunk or any other spot that's far enough away so you can sleep at 5:30 am.
Excavation
Woodpeckers do most excavating in spring and summer during nesting season. A woodpecker may start a new hole or widen an existing hole. Wait until the cavity is vacant of chicks or eggs before making repairs. Nest boxes are not likely to be immediately effective because woodpeckers often like to make their own cavity. They may not recognize your nest box as suitable or another bird may compete for the nest box. You may put up a nest box anyway because in the long run, a woodpecker or other bird (like a screech owl, wood duck or kestrel, depending on habitat) may use a nest box the following season. If a woodpecker has started excavating on your house, and there are no eggs or chicks, then netting is the best solution.
Foraging
A woodpecker's methodical pecking and prying is foraging behavior. Evidence of foraging are small, shallow and regularly spaced holes over a wide area. Woodpeckers don't forage at random; they listen for their prey inside wood and winkle them out with their chisel bills and long tongues. They like wood infested with grubs, ants, termites and other wood-boring critters. If this is the case, the bird is the least of your problems and you need an exterminator and possibly a contractor to repair the damage done by insects. If you have clean, dry wood in your house, this will retard infestation and woodpeckers will not select your house for foraging.
Habitat Protection
The best situation is when woodpeckers have enough natural habitat to keep them busy, and they will less likely bother with your house. If you are developing property or building a house, you would do well to keep as many trees around as you can. Keep dead limbs and trees but you might consult an arborist to see which ones are safe to keep. If you have to cut down or remove dead wood, try keeping the half-rotten parts in a safe spot, ideally vertically standing. I have a friend who had to cut down a dead tree near his house. After the tree was de-limbed cut down, he installed like a giant fencepost a safe distance away. Now he has a "woodpecker snag" and enjoys watching the woodpeckers which frequently visit. Protecting woodpecker habitat also benefits other native birds, because many birds nest in abandoned woodpecker holes.
Building Materials for Your House
If you want a log cabin or rustic house in the woods, you should expect to be tolerant of woodpeckers because that's the kind of structure that attracts them. If not, consider selecting building materials that woodpeckers cannot easily cling to, like smooth, non-wood surfaces or smooth, painted wood. Avoid untreated or stained wood, especially cedar and redwood. Whether you’re building a new house or not, do what you can to seal out moisture and cracks to prevent insect infestation. Woodpeckers foraging for insects are the reason for many woodpecker complaints.

Common Woodpecker Species of the Willamette Valley
All of our woodpeckers are native and year-round residents. Some birds may come and go from one spot to another, so you may experience a seasonal pattern on your property.
Northern Flicker: Common and ubiquitous in forests, farm land, residential and urban areas. It spends more time foraging on the ground than other woodpeckers. You will most likely encounter this woodpecker and most woodpecker complaints are due to flickers.
Downy Woodpecker: This tiny woodpecker is common in any habitat, urban or forest, which has trees. It forages on branches in the crowns of trees as well as shrubs close to the ground. It may also visit some bird feeders, especially suet.
Hairy Woodpecker: Less common, preferring undisturbed forest patches.
Red-breasted Sapsucker: Common to uncommon in or near forested areas. It has a unique habit of removing small bits of bark from trees and drinking the sap. This may do little harm but orchard owners may experience unwanted damage from sapsucker activity.
Acorn Woodpecker: Lives in colonies only among oak stands. The colony selects old tree limbs or other, dead soft wood for storing acorns. They'll store hundreds of acorns. Each acorn has its own hole just deep enough to firmly hold the nut.
Pileated Woodpecker: This large woodpecker is uncommon but those lucky enough to have one around may see them regularly. It is strictly a forest dweller but may appear in urban parks with plenty of trees. It has the potential to the most damage because it can remove large amounts of wood.

-Don Boucher

I don't think that dressing appropriately is intuitive. It's clear that most people think that it's always miserable being outside in cold, rainy, or hot weather. They either just decide to endure it, despite their own discomfort distracting them so much that they can't enjoy themselves or focus on their surroundings, or they just stay in their house or car. I'm one of those chilly people who is always wearing a sweater at work when everyone else is comfortable in short sleeves. I used to be discouraged by how quickly I'd feel cold or miserable when I decided to go out in stormy weather. I was dismayed at how quickly my shoes and pants became cold, heavy burdens as I pushed through wet brush in search of mushrooms. I couldn't have imagined enjoying myself while camping in sleet and snow or spending the day outside in triple-digit heat. But although I've actually done these things, I haven't acquired any superhuman toughness. I just decided to focus on my comfort, and through trial and error, I've learned how to dress appropriately for almost every situation. Comfort, in this case, doesn't mean pampering oneself or having a delicate temperament. It's smart preparedness that ensures that your attention is where you want it, not preoccupied with cold feet, wet clothes, or other preventable distractions.

Warm-weather ancestry
Why is cold weather, in particular, so daunting? Humans are fundamentally mammals of subtropical and tropical Africa. Waves of humans were able to migrate out of Africa and spread all over the world solely because they could create fire and clothing. As a tropical animal living in temperate climates, we are greatly disadvantaged in cold weather. Other native mammals' physiologies have evolved to cope with the cold. However, our hairless bodies and our ability to sweat, as befits our warm-climate ancestry, enables us to endure heat that drives most other mammals into hiding on hot days.

Cold, windy and wet weather clothing
The most challenging cold-weather conditions we face in western Oregon valleys are winter storms with near-freezing temperatures, wind, and rain, sleet, or wet snow. It's hard to stay dry, and the wind causes significant wind chill. These cold, wet conditions are actually more difficult to prepare for than dry, subfreezing temperatures.
The old standbys of rubber boots and vinyl rain gear are just about the most uncomfortable clothing you could wear. Instead of rubber boots, which are cold, clammy, and too clunky and poorly-fitting for longer walks, get yourself some waterproof overshoes. I wear N.E.O.S. (New England Over Shoes) brand, which makes lightweight models and insulated models, enabling you to wear your own comfortable shoes inside a totally waterproof, flexible fabric shell with its own sole. They're great for rainy mushroom-picking trips, walks through dewy grass, or exploration of streamside animal tracks. They'll more than pay for themselves. A set of Yaktrax or similar shoe traction devices enable the overshoes to be worn in ice and snow with confidence.
Vinyl rain gear is heavy and clammy. Get one of the many kinds of breathable, waterproof rain gear on the market. Many of these consist of a nylon shell with a microporous polyurethane membrane. Look for sturdy construction and taped seams. Holes can be repaired with any kind of seam sealer or shoe repair glue. Don't just buy a waterproof jacket; I've seen too many uncomfortable people wearing nice new rain jackets with soaking wet jeans. Rain pants that overlap your overshoes let you sit comfortably on wet ground and walk through wet grass without feeling a drop of it. Waterproof gloves will keep hands warm and dry, although the quality of glove waterproofing varies. Bring two pairs of gloves if you think one may eventually soak through. Wear a wide-brimmed, waterproof hat. Stick with neutral, earth tones so you can wear your rain gear while approaching wildlife without being conspicuous. A full suit of rain gear is excellent protection from wind chill.

Insulating layers should consist of quick-drying synthetic long underwear and multiple layers of insulation with high loft. The layers need to be loose enough that they can trap warm air. Lightweight fleece clothing is particularly good. Sweaters and fleece perform poorly in windy conditions unless you wear them under a windproof jacket. Socks tend to get sweaty no matter what, but cotton socks are the worst. For a cold-weather camping trip, bring lots of extra dry socks made from synthetic fibers to change as needed. Use an "earband" or ear-covering cap made for cyclists to wear under a bicycle helmet, or another kind of ear protection that can be worn under your hat. Earmuffs are typically too bulky. A scarf or neck gaiter blocks the draft around your neck. In severe cold, a full hood that can go under your hat is helpful. Wearing a hooded fleece jacket, and the hood of your rain coat as well, combined with a waterproof hat you can adjust to fit over both hoods will keep the rain from soaking the back of your head and your other layers of clothing. A ski mask or balaclava can help keep your face warm, but tends to accumulate moisture and can restrict breathing if worn over the nose and mouth.

Another complication is sweating during periods of activity, and then becoming chilled when sitting or standing. To minimize the accumulation of moisture, breathable waterproof rain wear is helpful. Again, don't wear cotton; I prefer layers of synthetic fibers, including a quick-drying layer next to the skin. This is no time for power walking; move at a pace that lets you avoid sweating, and cool yourself by drinking plenty of water during activity. Avoiding sweating is very important, as even breathable rain gear will trap moisture. If you feel too warm, stop as soon as you can and remove an underlayer. Carry an additional insulating layer with you to put on under your rain gear if you feel cold when you sit to rest.

Backpack tips for wet weather
Keeping items in a backpack dry in rainy weather can be done using a pack cover of extremely lightweight silicone-impregnated cloth. However, in heavy rain, a pack cover may not be adequate protection, as the part of the backpack that lies against your back is partially exposed to whatever water drips between it and your back. A more reliable method is packing whatever needs to stay dry into waterproof bags in your backpack. The backpack itself will get wet, but the contents stay dry in their own bags. Freezer bags or reused plastic grocery bags will keep extra clothing dry.

Cameras & optics in wet weather
Cameras and binoculars are more difficult to manage during rainy weather. Most cameras are very susceptible to water damage like other electronics. However, even in heavy rain, you can use them in combination with an umbrella. During dark and rainy days, a tripod may be necessary to get sharp photos with long exposures. Before you put it away, wipe off any raindrops with a dry cotton cloth kept in a plastic bag. When it's not in use, pack your camera in waterproof plastic bags. A double layer is a good insurance policy. In very cold weather, camera batteries may not be able to deliver enough current, or they may quickly lose charge. It's a good idea to have two sets of batteries to swap, keeping one in a pocket to warm it for optimum performance. Use fully waterproof binoculars. One of the problems with wet and cold weather is lens fogging. Several anti-fog products you can apply to lenses are on the market. Otherwise, your dry cotton cloth will come in handy for wiping fogged or rain-spattered lenses.

Hot weather
Although humans cope fairly well in hot weather, when compared with other mammals, very hot weather presents its own set of challenges. A lot of people automatically put on shorts in hot weather, but for any off-trail exploring, expeditions where you'll walk through blackberry or other thorny plants, or be exposed to poison oak, bare skin can be a liability. Wear thin, synthetic pants and your legs will be better protected and stay quite cool. As with cold weather, cotton is not necessarily a good choice. Quick-drying synthetic fabrics let your sweat evaporate efficiently, allowing it to cool you. The night before, freeze some half-full bottles of water, and fill up the bottles with water in the morning. Put them in your backpack, and you'll appreciate having ice water in the heat of the day. Take a tip from the other mammals, and use the early morning and late evening to walk in open areas, and stay in the forest in the heat. Don't plan to cover a lot of ground, just move in a slow, relaxed way to avoid overheating. On very hot days, get out early in the morning while it's still cool. As the day heats up, just lie down in a nice spot in the woods and sleep away the hottest part of the day like the other critters do. Enjoy a leisurely lunch and drink some of your cold water. You'll be refreshed by the time the cooling breezes of the evening begin, when bird and mammal activity picks up again. Wet down your clothing or hair to take advantage of cooling evaporation. If you stay well-hydrated, retreat to the shade, and keep your activity level low, you'll find that you can withstand very hot weather in relative comfort.

A ticket to better understanding of nature
These tips are things I've learned over years of spending time outside in challenging weather conditions. You might have your own ideas that work better than mine do. It adds another, deeper perspective to your understanding of local nature when you explore it in every season, in every kind of weather. You'll see the beautiful structures of ice and frost in comfort, slosh through flower-dotted wet prairies without having wet feet, enjoy the sounds and solitude of the forest on a hot summer day, and happily hunt for wild mushrooms during a fall rainstorm. A lot better than hibernating in the house!

Conservationists as Naturalists
Corvallis is a progressive town where nature conservation and sustainability are popular. However, I am surprised to find that, even among conservation activists, there’s a common disconnect with nature, especially on a local level. I advocate that nature conservation is greatly augmented when activists are well-rounded naturalists. Comprehension of nature on a local level even helps with conservation issues further abroad.

I’m afraid that many bright and curious conservationists avoid the study of nature due to misconceptions that it might be difficult. Knowing about nature is not strictly the realm elite biologists or wildlife officials, it’s for everyone.

Studying nature is easy! You can tap into hidden talents which can make it easier for you. In the hunter-gatherer days, people learned about nature simply by living, eating, hunting and avoiding danger. Humans have had intricate knowledge about birds, plants, animals and weather patterns much longer than we have known things like written language or farming. You have an instinctual legacy which drives you to want to understand the natural features around you. Following that legacy is as natural as falling in love or pinching the cheek of a cute baby. Those caveman instincts of yours may be applied to the digital age.

There’s an aspect to learning about nature that’s unlike many academic subjects. While there’s a bookish side to biology where you can memorize parts of the cell, learn plant taxonomy or drill yourself with pages of animal tracks, there’s an equally important tactile knowledge of observing nature in the field. There are many things that field guides or classrooms can’t teach you that are learned by experience. This kind of experience is the most fun and memorable. Whether you’re trying to get a glimpse of a warbler in the treetops or tracking down the perfect habitat to see your favorite lily in bloom, it’s easy to imagine yourself as a hunter-gatherer during the Stone Age. It’s the thrill of the hunt!

It’s possible for anybody to make a habit out of studying nature and build it into an everyday routine. Look at it more like recreation than a chore. Follow your own path as a naturalist. Learn what interests you and do it at your own pace. Blend your interest in nature with other interests. Readers of our newsletter have learned that there are many wonderful natural subjects that are close by, even in their own yards. There are tools, methods and techniques to bring your experiences home and apply them in an academic way.

I highly recommend that you have a nature spot to visit regularly. It should be very convenient and preferably somewhat private. I mean really convenient too! Your back yard is ideal. I'm not asking you to give up your favorite wild area or camping destination but it's really important to be able to visit your nature spot at any free moment, at any given time and on any given day. You can visit that really cool wildlife refuge or national forest spot when you have time. However, when you're stressed, busy and just need a little getaway, you'll appreciate the convenience. This spot is for practice and there many little things such as insects, sparrows and weeds that you can learn. When you learn about anything in nature, no matter how seemingly irrelevant, it always leads to insight or understanding of the bigger picture. Also, isn't it fun to be curious? Even learning about a pathetic little weed sharpens your naturalist skills. If you need a spot, take a week or so to walk around your neighborhood to find the spot for you. Be patient and find the spot that's right for you. Let the search become your first adventure. Lisa and I have a beaver pond in our neighborhood. It's part of an urban creek that flows behind Safeway and through an industrial area.

There are both modern and classic tools which you can employ to record your experiences. Journaling is an age old technique which works well for many people. Even for those who don’t consider themselves talented writers can benefit. The process of writing is a learning tool, nobody else has to see it. There are all kinds of books, classes and Web sites which offer tips on journaling. Most of them suggest keeping journaling brief and relaxing and to associate writing with rewarding routines like making a cup of tea. A journal not only records thoughts and feeling that you may forget later but the process of writing it down retains memories better. Another way to preserve memories is photography. Take photos of things in the field to help you learn about them. Don’t get too caught up with taking pretty pictures exclusively, be trigger happy. Even bad photos are useful as records of field observations. If you buy a camera, the only advice I have to get one with a macro lens. There are many tiny things like bugs, flowers and leaves that are of interest to the naturalist. Otherwise, good digital cameras are cheap. (also see article on photography) There are other things to try to help in your learning and I can’t mention them all here. Many naturalists collect specimens and there are books and Web sites to help you with that too. A collection of bones, leaves, pressed flowers, feathers and/or other natural items can be fun but you’ll have to keep track of what you can legally and ethically possess.

Strangely, conservation issues are sometimes an obstacle to the naturalist who wishes to better understand nature. Before I continue, I want to acknowledge that a conservation issue may be a rallying call for the community that catalyzes people to learn more about their natural environment.

In the Willamette Valley we have popular threatened and endangered species which are local symbols of conservation. Many conservationists know about the Fender’s Blue butterfly and its host plant Kincaid’s Lupine. They’re featured in newspaper articles and the Corvallis Environmental Center features theses species in its logo. Several times a year, school children and volunteers participate in work parties planting Kincaid’s Lupine and other threatened or endangered species. This is great, citizens really care around here. While the Fender’s Blue and Kincaid’s Lupine are popular names and images, few people have ever seen them on their own in the field. That’s understandable, they’re rare. Surprisingly, even fewer are aware that common similar species even exist. When I’ve shown photos or video of common species of blue butterflies or common species of lupine that occur in our area, many people immediately assume they are the popular rare species. These conservation symbols are abstractions to these people, they know them through the local media alone. Furthermore, these abstractions are their only mental representations of the myriad of other kinds of native butterflies and plants that occur locally. Even worse, I have found incorrectly labeled photos of Kincaid’s Lupine and Fender’s Blue on Web sites.

It’s possible to confuse the study of nature with the science of conservation management or the passion of conservation activism. Most people encounter subjects in nature with reference to one conservation action or another. Every conservationist should be a naturalist. It’s not necessary to be an expert in any particular area but there should be at least a rudimentary understanding of the natural character of one’s own bioregion. Conservation doesn’t define the laws of nature.

It is important to understand the character your natural surroundings independent of endangered species or other conservation dilemmas. For example, a naturalist must have a good handle on common plants before recognizing a rare plant and understanding its relevance. A well-rounded nature-study program can lead you to a balanced perspective on nature conservation. Furthermore, learning about nature makes local critters, plants and habitats personal knowledge and leads to a special sense of place and passion. If you know and love your local flora and fauna, you can relate to conservation issues on a national or global scale much better. This surpasses the feelings of guilt that motivates many people to support otherwise abstract conservation issues.

Give yourself the time and mental peace to study nature, as it is, without the judgmental distractions of the “who’s who” of good species and bad species. It may be hard to occasionally tear your mind away from conservation but you’ll benefit greatly from having first-hand, raw experience with nature. It’s good to be a thinking, rational naturalist who knows in your heart and mind why conservation is important. Otherwise, conservation may only be a fashionable cause of the self righteous.

Understand that I’m not making a case against popular themes in conservation. I want to expand and improve the culture of conservation. We need to do everything in our power to preserve the integrity of our natural treasures. Sometimes I’m confronted by conservationists because I spend so much time promoting the study of common plants and animals. I think they feel the Neighborhood Naturalist program is wasting time and not paying attention to more pressing issues. I respectfully disagree. Our culture in general severely lacks a connection with nature. I’m advocating a kind of natural literacy where conservationists are better informed. One cannot appreciate Shakespeare if one cannot read well. A well-rounded naturalist can read nature like a book. Don’t rely on the experts to tell you what’s valuable in nature. Read nature for yourself and do your own “book report” about it.

The good news is that every species is intrinsically interesting on its own. Naturalists have many favorite species which are not necessarily relevant to conservation. Some things in nature are just cool! If we lived in a world without any conservation issues (as hard as that is to imagine), I’d still be studying nature. Nature is an inexhaustible pastime.

-Don Boucher

Digital photography has made a photographer out of anyone with a computer. I think this is a good thing. The same general process I’m about to illustrate applies to film photography. First of all, if you have a camera, just start using it on natural subjects. If you need to buy a camera for nature photography, I recommend a camera that can focus on small, close-up things. Look for a camera that has a lens suitable for macro photography. As for digital cameras, the common technology has surpassed the needs of the nonprofessional photographer. Don’t waste money on fancy megapixels. For beginners, keep it simple and cheap. Most all new cameras available, even cheap ones, are suitable for producing quality prints on a desktop printer. After a year or so, or when you feel confident with photography, you may intelligently spend more money on a camera that suits your photographic style. If you already have a camera, whether or not it has a macro lens, just start using it and buy a camera later only when the camera you have isn’t doing what you need. Bring your camera with you! In bad weather, keep it in a plastic bag or some other protective gear.

Photography is like ocular journaling and, like journaling, it has the benefit recording your personal experience for future review. I would recommend that you organize your photos on a regular basis. Soon after returning from the field, load the photos onto your computer with a dated folder. Soon thereafter, you can name individual photos. If you’re using film, after you get the photos back from developing, sort and file your photos and write dates and descriptions on the back of each photo. Do what works best for you but develop a process that’s simple and easy to immediately catalog your photos so that you may find them easily months or years later.

Be trigger happy, shoot photos of anything interesting. This process is a learning tool, even badly composed photos are valuable for identification purposes. If you combine photography with a written journal, the results are delightful. Staple photos to your journal pages or write on the backs of photos. If you do your journaling or blogging on the Web, it’s easy to integrate your digital photos.

Review all your photos large on your computer screen. It’s like taking your experience in the field and giving it a second pass through your brain and you will learn more in the process. Take the next step and look up the subjects of your photos with field guides or other resources. It can be a challenge to take a bunch of field guides with you. The nice thing about photography is that you may capture your observations and bring them to the field guides. If you don’t have many field guides at home, perhaps you can bring your photos to your local library.

Be thorough when taking pictures for identification purposes. If you’re taking a picture of a plant, kneel down and get close for detailed photos of the flowers, leaves, stems, fruits or seeds. Take a picture of the whole plant too. You may need to gently push grass and other plants aside. Take a picture of the plant’s habitat. The same general attention to detail applies to other sedentary subjects like mushrooms, birds nests, animal tracks and bones as well as some spiders and insects.

Birds and other fleeting animals can be more of a challenge. This is more like hunting where patience and perseverance pays off. Mammals can be the most difficult due to their wariness and nocturnal habits. Getting close is the key, even with a 12x zoom. Getting close to birds requires good birding habits like acting calm and waiting for the bird to show up in spot where you can see it. With mammals you have to be aware of the wind as they may flee if they can smell you. Some mammals and birds make easy subjects. Bunnies and birds in park lawns are accustom to picnickers and are easy to photograph. Reptiles, amphibians and some insects are fleeting when you first encounter them but may relax if you wait still for a few minutes. Then you can slowly and carefully move closer for a good shot.

If you really want to get into zoom photography you need at least a 20x optical zoom lens. The word "optical" is important. Some digital cameras advertise 50x or more digital but will give you a poor photo with heavy pixels. A quick fix is to buy a 2x teleconverter, which is essentially a magnifying glass that screws on the lens. It multiplies your camera’s zoom. If you have a 10x optical zoom on your camera, then the 2x teleconverter will make your camera 20x. Teleconverters come in other values like 1.5x, 1.7 x and occasionally 3x. Even though there are many converters on the market, any given camera may only have one or two compatible models available. There’s a cascade of expenses of camera equipment involved in zoom photography. Unfortunately, not all cameras have lenses that can take a teleconverter and you may need to buy a more expensive camera to get a better zoom. SLR cameras have modular lenses so that the same camera body can quickly change lenses. That’s really handy but the prices are typically the realm of professionals. At 20x or more zoom, you need to hold the camera steady and that means the expense of a tripod and the hassle of carrying one around. I don’t want to scare you away from zoom photography but just be aware of the challenges. The results can be spectacular and the the thrill of the “hunt” can be addictive. That being said, your camera may already be good enough to help you identify a subject. Advanced zoom photography isn’t necessarily the direction every photographer needs to go.

High megapixel photography (say 8 megapixel or more) and digital video are great but they take more expensive computer systems to handle the results. With digital video, the hard drive space necessary is ridiculous. I use a digital video camera and love it, but I’ve spent more money and time on it than many people would be willing to do.

I often admonish naturalists to advance their skills of observation while in the field. Photography can extend your “photographic” memory and is a valuable learning tool to help you explore and understand the natural features that surround you. You have an opportunity to bond with the nature and photography may be a bridge that carries you there.

-Don Boucher
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Besides pet cats, cars and pollution, windows are a primary way in which birds get injured or killed as a result of human presence. In the spring the problem can be quite common. A male bird will try to chase its own reflection from its breeding territory, mistaking it for an invading male. The rest of the year, birds might simply mistake the reflection as a place to fly to — ouch! This can kill a bird but even if a bird is only briefly stunned by the impact, it can be vulnerable from attack from a pet or native predator.

I believe the best preventative measure is a combination of 3/4 inch netting and the addition of objects to obscure the reflectivity of the window. Netting is almost fool-proof, preventing birds from hitting the hard window and it affects the view from inside very little (especially when the netting is black, as it is most often sold). Netting should weighted on the bottom or tied so birds bounce off it instead of getting tangled in it. You can obtain netting at a farm supply or hardware store, make sure you ask for 3/4 inch netting or something close. The netting used for soccer or other sports will work just fine. Install netting a foot or two from the window and you might hang it from the eaves. If a bird gets behind the net, it can't do much damage to itself because it there is inadequate space to accelerate.

Hawk and Owl Decoys
Plastic owls and hawk silhouettes aren't very effective. Most birds learn to ignore these lifeless objects. Decoys which hang and move in the wind are slightly better. Shiny streamers which move in the wind are better but aren't effective enough when used alone.

Time to Decorate
Obscuring the reflection in the window will help the bird see the window instead of the reflection. The rule of thumb is easy, if you can see the reflection, so can the bird. Have fun with the idea instead of treating it like an obnoxious chore. Light-colored drapes are great and many will let sufficient light through on a sunny day. Decals, stain glass ornaments, kid's art projects or anything you like can be placed evenly throughout the window surface so that no large gap of reflection can be seen. There are hawk silhouette decals available. As I mentioned, these aren't very effective in scaring birds, but as a bird lover, I think they're cool, and work just fine for the purpose of breaking up the reflection. If the decoys happen to scare a few naive birds for a while then all the better. You may place streamers or other objects on the black netting so birds can see that too. If there are sheds with windows or other reflective surfaces on your property consider covering them up altogether of they are not in use. If birds are crashing into your car windows, you can cover them when not in use.

Bird Feeders
It's fun to place feeders next to windows but be mindful of how the birds will react to the nearby reflection. Sometimes birds see "the other" feeder in the reflection and "whack!" Placing feeders under nearby trees and shrubs may make the feeders less visible in window reflections. Follow guidelines used in many books about backyard feeder setups. Do an inspection of your feeder setup and imagine the bird's perspective. Rearrange things accordingly. Place feeders near a window that has the preventative measures installed as already mentioned.

There are likely other preventative techniques I missed here but the key is to use a combination of measures to insure effectiveness. It is unlikely you will eliminate all bird impacts but you can easily reduce the chances.

-Don Boucher